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by Jas Johal
Hockey Night in India
NEW DELHI — Living and working in India you realize very early how important a role religion plays in the lives of its people. But when you watch television or read magazines here you realize there are two religions that overshadow all others: Bollywood and Cricket.
Bollywood I understand. Cricket I’m still getting use to. To call this country cricket mad is an understatement. With all those cricket channels you can understand why the Canadian in me misses hockey. So when a bunch of Canadians invited me to Ladakh to watch a few hockey games I jumped at the chance.
Located in the mountainous northwest region of India, Ladakh is paradise. It is truly God’s country and at 11,000 feet above sea level it’s where the world’s highest-altitude hockey is being played. I joined diplomats from Canada’s High Commission in New Delhi who make a yearly trip here to play hockey.
My initial reaction is probably no different than yours: They play ice hockey in India? It began in 2001 when a Ladakhi official came to Delhi looking to get a travel visa so he could buy hockey equipment in Canada. The reaction to the visa application is still remembered by Calgarian Tony Kretzschmar. “The officer thought Indians don’t play ice hockey. It’s a hot country. That’s a scam.”
When they investigated further they were shocked to learn that Ladakh was a tiny hockey hotbed. Hockey was played on frozen ponds and reservoirs just like they used to in Canada in the early part of the last century. The Indian army first introduced ice hockey here in the mid 1980s. Skates were nothing more than army boots with metal bolted onto them. Goalies wore cricket pads and used field-hockey sticks.
Since then, Canadians have been visiting every year. The tournaments have been getting bigger and the players better.
Brent Hamilton is a teacher in New Delhi. It was his first visit to Ladakh and he was awestruck watching a pond hockey game in a region known for its mountains and monasteries. “You know as a little kid growing up in Canada, playing hockey and dreaming about playing in the NHL, this is one of the most amazing hockey experiences I’ve ever come across.”
While the Canadians had the advantage when it comes to experience, the Ladakhis were used to playing on the roof of the world. “We have the stamina. We’re used to playing in high altitude,” said Ladakhi player Sonam Paldan.
The Canadians were quite concerned about the thin air in Ladakh. We were warned to acclimatize for at least 24 hours upon our arrival. Four people were sick the first day. Even running up the stairs to my first-floor hotel room left me breathless.
Deputy High Commissioner Peter Nickel, who played in the tournament, knew the only chance of winning was quick shift changes. “Fifteen- to 20-second shifts. That’s all,” he told me.
The hockey has gotten better here thanks to donations of skates and sticks. The Montreal Canadians, L.A. Kings and New York Islanders have either donated equipment or sent coaches to work with the locals. With little to do in the winter, hockey keeps teenagers busy. Illiteracy and unemployment are big problems so through donations Canadians have also helped teenagers return to school and gain valuable skills.
Canadian Cynthia Hunt works for a non-government organization and lives in the region working with at-risk youth in isolated communities. “Our future leaders program started in hockey to deal with young people who dropped out of school and don’t get jobs and can get into trouble,” she explains.
Even though hockey is a force for good in the area it doesn’t mean there aren’t problems. India’s notorious bureaucracy still makes it difficult at times to import hockey gear. Ladakh also suffers from a lack of electricity most of the year. A new hydro electric dam will hopefully change that, which would finally mean Ladakh could get its first indoor hockey rink in the next few years.
During my time there, I saw many smiles. None were bigger than that of Akshay Kumar, the president of the Indian Ice Hockey Association. After years of fighting bureaucracy and getting ice hockey recognized as an official sport with the government, Kumar tells me construction of India’s first indoor hockey rink will begin in March north of Delhi.
It will come complete with a Zamboni. During the stifling summer heat, when temperatures can hit the mid 40s the arena will be used for inline skating. It’s expected more arenas will soon follow as India begins attending international tournaments.
“Last year we selected our first national team and they played in Abu Dhabi at the Asian Challenge Cup and we also managed to score our first international goal,” Kumar says proudly.
His enthusiasm didn’t help the Ladakhis on the scoreboard. They ended up losing all three games to the Canadians. But in an age of spoiled athletes, sky-high hockey ticket prices, and pesky agents, it was wonderful to see the true meaning and impact of hockey. Who knew I would have to go all the way to India to find it. p
Based in New Delhi, Jas Johal is the South Asia Bureau Chief for Global National News which airs daily at 5:30pm.
Based in New Delhi, Jas Johal is the South Asia Bureau Chief for Global National News which airs daily at 5:30pm.
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